Rear Suspension

A superior quality set of rear radius arm adjuster brackets. Heavier gauge steel and better fit than the less expensive kits.

Adjustable rear camber brackets, improved with thicker 4mm metal bracketry and revised camber and toe angle adjustment plate.

These brackets allow for incremental camber adjustment and are ideal for aligning the rear suspension. Sold per pair.

Full car set of adjustable length struts that allow the Classic Mini to be lowered or raised in each corner to achieve different ride height and corner weights. The struts

This shims can be inserted between the outer trailing arm bracket and the subframe to reduce toe-in at the rear. .020 thick. Sold each.

Rear anti-roll ("sway") bar. Helps to control body roll, reduce understeer and induce oversteer. For both road and race cars. Used by vintage racers, Fortech approved. Adjustable stiffness. Drop center

High-strength bolt for the trunnions of the rear subframe.

Kit contains polyurethane bump stops that contact the trailing arm before the tire meets the fender; includes left and right side.

Modern technology has enabled coil springs to replace the classic Mini's original rubber springs. Supplied with hard-anodized aluminum seats; choose red or blue, spring rate is identical.

Our Fortech-approved coil spring conversion is available with a matching set of nicely made billet aluminum adjustable struts. Full ride height adjustment is possible for weight balancing or road/track conditions.

Duplicating the Special Tuning design, the kit includes mounting brackets and bump rubbers. For hydrolastic cars, to prevent bottoming in arduous rally conditions, but can be adapted to dry arms.

Replacement rubber snubbers for competition bump stop kits. Sold each.

Sturdy service tool used to compress the rubber cone spring on dry suspension Minis. Suitable for early models with SAE threaded cones and later production with metric threaded cones. Detailed

This fitting is used in several places, including front swivel hubs and outer end of rear radius arm shaft.

Internal plastic tube that carries grease from the outer bushing to the inner bearing on the rear trailing arm. Without this tube in place, the entire swing arm could eventually fill with grease.

Pair of genuine Hi-Lo aluminum strut extensions required for the rear of the Mini. See SSS0015K for the original Hi-Lo strut set.

Genuine UK-made Hi-Los are adjustable length struts that allow the Classic Mini to be lowered or raised in each corner to achieve different ride height and corner weights. Plus the

Found on the back of the rear subframe, this valve is where the hydro fluid is admitted to the system. Two used per car.

KAD's alloy rear wheel hubs, sold by the pair, with studs. CNC machined from high-strength 2014A alloy for half the weight of the standard steel hub. Compatible with the

This bar will help eliminate understeer and will allow a race Mini to be set up with a "loose" rear end if that is your choice for high speed driving.

KAD rear blade type anti roll bar; helps to control body roll for both road and race cars. Rear bar is 5/8" diameter

This cup isolates the knuckle pin from the suspension arm and must be in good shape. If your rubber boot has torn, then dirt has been admitted and the cup

Rover-packaged version of the nylon cup for the suspension knuckle joint assembly.

Rubber boot to protect the metal pin in the knuckle joint from grit and eventual damage.

This knuckle joint has a built-in spacer, and was used on the front of Minis equipped with 13" wheels to raise the suspension for clearance.

A unique suspension component found on Minis is the knuckle joint that transmits movement of the suspension arms into the springs. This metal pin has a pivot ball covered

Genuine MG-Rover knuckle joint. Racers and knowledgeable mechanics insist on this OEM component due to the heavy loading it encounters in use. Even the Unipart product is aftermarket-made these days,

Replacement knuckle joint assembly to fit the Smootharide aftermarket suspension kit. Shaft diameter is 14mm, which is larger than a standard knuckle joint.

Use this packing joint to raise the suspension for additional tire clearance on any 1984-on classic Mini. 3.41mm thick. Suspension has a 3:1 ratio on front and 5:1 rear.

Locking nylon-insert nuts to replace the ones on the front upper control arms and on the rear radius arm pivot pins. When Nyloc nuts are used, the original plain nut and lock washer will be replaced.

1/2” serrated-flange nut for rear trailing arm shaft. Recommended for use with SSS0006 or SSS0041.

Needle roller bearing as used in the rear trailing arm on Minis from 1963-2000. Included in GSV1125E kit.

This seal is used in both front and rear suspension. Use four (4) in front and four (4) in back. Sold each.

Dome shaped bump stop that mounts to the top of hydrolastic radius arm to prevent bottoming out. Two required per car. See also C-AJJ3313 progressive bump stop kit.

This bushing is used on the outer end of all Mini radius arms, and also on the inner end of pre-1963 arms. These must be reamed/honed to

Metal clip retains the sector to the handbrake in wet swing arms. Sold each.

Mk3 and later Mini radius arms used a clevis pin instead of a bolt for the handbrake sector pivot on dry suspension cars. Use one (1) per arm.

Small spring washer on pivot shaft of brake sector on wet arms. Sold each.

Nylon thrust washer, fits the 21A1507 handbrake quadrant on the radius arm and held on by 21A1513 clip.

Sector guides the handbrake cable through a 90 degree bend on the dry rear radius arm. Includes bushing 21A0798. Sold each, two fitted.

Hydrolastic swing arms use a different handbrake sector from dry models. This sector turns the angle of the hand-brake cable 90 degrees. Use 21A1512 thrust, 21A1513

The rear radius (swing) arm pivots on a shaft that can wear over time. Our kit includes the shaft, bushing, bearing, thrust washers, seals and hardware to complete the job.

Aftermarket version of rear stub axle. Lower shock mounting stud included. Must be pressed into place. Choose right- or left-hand version.

Left side trailing arm, new-old-stock from the Rover assembly line. Includes shaft, seals, and hardware. Stub axle is installed. Left Hand. Sold outright without core charge.

Right side trailing arm, new-old stock from the Rover assembly line. Includes shaft, seals, and hardware. Stub axle is installed. Right Hand. Sold outright without core charge.

This kit is pre-drilled to give 1.5 degrees of negative camber compared to stock brackets. Not adjustable. Sold per set.

Small cap to keep road grit and brake dust out of the rear wheel bearings.

The left-hand-threaded nut was used on the left-hand rear stub axle so the rotation of the wheel would help tighten it if it loosened.