Products 241-261 of 261
11/28/2018 12:00:00 AM
Item #: FAM1785 -
Heavy-duty tow eye for the front of the classic Mini. Attaches to the front subframe through the large hole below the front bumper.
4/5/2018 12:00:00 AM
Item #: C-SRP200 -
Extra heavy-duty and long tow eye for use with front air dam. Attaches at the front subframe bolt, as with the standard tow eye. Sold each.
Item #: FOR041 -
This very strong tow eye bolts to the underside of the rear subframe. Aftermarket; sold each.
7/11/2017 12:00:00 AM
Item #: C-STR638 -
This bushing kit replaces the 2A5818 half-bushing to tie the Mini's rear subframe more rigidly to the body shell.
Item #: 2A5818 -
The rear subframe trunnions until 1976 used two of these half-bushings each, for a total of eight (8) on the early cars. After 1976, only the rear trunnions took these, so the quantity per car is four (4).
Item #: GUJ0102 -
Inner U-Joint to rebuild your QL5000 unit. Your nylon cups can be removed from their original U-Joint and pressed onto this new one.
Item #: GUJ0101 -
If you have the flange coupling assembly in the drive shaft, this is the internal u-joint needed to rebuild the assembly. No zerk fitting installed. Sold each, 2
Item #: GUJ0101HS -
The flanged drive coupling found on some Minis is often called the Hardy-Spicer joint after the original manufacturer. This is the strongest version available.
6/5/2017 12:00:00 AM
Item #: 2A4327 -
Metal plate attaches to the subframe tower with two small bolts to retain the upper arm pivot shaft. The best way to buy this component is in
Item #: SSS0008 -
Nice aftermarket repair kit includes everything normally needed to rebuild one upper arm. Replacement pivot shaft, two needle roller bearings, locating washers and hardware give you all
Item #: 21A1479-USED -
Hydrolastic parts are mostly all obsolete as new parts, but we keep the most commonly needed parts in stock in good, used condition. The hydrolastic upper arms of the
Item #: C-AJJ3359 -
If you lower a Mini more than a couple of inches, you run the risk of bottoming out your front shocks. This pair of upgraded brackets set move the
Item #: 21A0474 -
Standard upper shock mount bolts to a reinforced area of the inner fender. For lowered or race cars, see C-AJJ3359 set.
Item #: 21A0471 -
This is the stock upper shock mount for the front, and it bolts to a reinforced area of the inner fender. For lowered or race cars, see C-AJJ3359 set.
Item #: BTA0672 -
If you have to service the rear hubs, first you remove the cotter pin and then the castellated nut. The next item after the nut is this thick steel washer, which retains the bearings inside the hub.
Item #: STL0032 -
Use this tool instead of the split taper collar when initially torquing the CV nut. This ensures that the wheel bearings and drive flange are properly seated, without risk of false torque reading due to the tapered collar binding.
Item #: 21A2064L -
This wheel stud is often used to replace standard stud when used with non-standard wheels or when spacers are used. Threaded length is 1.125". Can be used front or rear.
Item #: 21A1278 -
Standard length stud for rear drums with built in .75" spacer. Threaded length is .75". If more thread is needed for your wheel nuts, see 21A1278LT.
Item #: 21A1278LT -
Version of 21A1278 stud with longer 1.125" threaded length to accomodate longer sleeve nuts used on wheels with thick centers.
Item #: ENJO-1040 -
The longest normal stud in standard 3/8" diameter for rear suspension. Stud is 78mm long, with 27mm threaded. Sold each.
Item #: 37H8706 -
This is the small wire circlip that is compressed when the joint is installed on the shaft. It also fits on the inner end of pot-joint drive shafts where the